Taiwan packs an unexpected wealth of diversity into a little space. You can drive from Keelung in the north to the Hengchun Peninsula, its southernmost tip, in a day. But during your trip you'd drive past emerald-peaked mountains, long stretches of coast, slumbering hamlets, insomniac cities, rice fields and harbors.

Slightly north of its midway point, the island of Taiwan is bisected by the Tropic of Cancer, making northern Taiwan subtropical, with hot summers and cool winters, and placing its southern reaches well within the balmy tropics.

Geologically speaking, Taiwan is a mountain range rising right out of the Pacific Ocean, formed by the slow collision of the Asian continental plate and the Philippine plate. The lofty Central Mountain Range, just under 4000 meters at its highest, dominates Taiwan, and it is this considerable range of high-altitude terrain - as much as two-thirds of the island's 14,000 square miles - that gives Taiwan its temperate montane ecosystem - a third distinct climatic zone.

Despite Taiwan's relatively small size and relatively large population, 52% of the island is covered by forest, spanning the full gamut from coniferous Alpine forests (over 3500 meters) to temperate broad-leaved forests to tropical strand forests and mangroves at sea level.

Most of the places that are great for children will be equally fun for adults. So when planning a trip around the island, don't forget to look into kid stuff.


1. Cities

(1) Kaohsiung
The largest city in southern Taiwan, Kaohsiung is the island's biggest port city, bustling with commercial energy and nightlife.

(2) Taichung
The third largest city, and the gateway to the Central Mountains, is Taichung (meaning "central Taiwan" and situated, as you might expect, in the middle of the west coast). Many people feel that it strikes the perfect balance between boisterous city life and the breezy relaxation of countryside Taiwan.

(3) Tainan
Located in between Taichung and Kaohsiung, Tainan ("south Taiwan") is the island's oldest city, and perhaps its most traditional, with a rich cultural heritage of historical sites and temples.

(4) Taoyuan
Located west of Taipei in northern Taiwan, Taoyuan is a major center of manufacturing, and home of Chiang Kai Shek International Airport.

(5) Hsinchu
Just south of Taoyuan is Hsinchu, a rustic farming area turned high-tech Mecca, with the establishment of the well-known Technology-based Industrial Park.

(6) Taitung
The major city of the southeast, Taitung has become something of a boom town in the last few years, but still keeps that sleepy, sunny feeling of the southern coast. The jumping-off point for Orchid Island, it is surrounded by pristine mountains and bright blue seas, far away from the more frantic cities.

(7) Keelung
Northern Taiwan's major port city, Keelung lies within reach of Taipei but retains a feel all its own.

(8) Hualien
Right in the middle of beautiful eastern Taiwan, Hualien is a short drive from Taroko Gorge, and very close to many different settlements of indigenous people, especially the Ami.

(9) Tamsui
The oldest port of northern Taiwan, Tamsui is now connected to Taipei by MRT. It's still got a nice harbor town aura, great seafood, and a breezy feel.



2. Highlights

Here are a handful - but by no means all - of the very best destinations for a trip around Taiwan.

(1) The East Coast

Sheer mountain cliffs rising right out of the Pacific Ocean are the breathtaking images that await you on Taiwan's east coast. Start in the fishing town of Su'ao and take the Su'ao-Hualien Highway, where some of the most amazing scenery is to be seen. If you have the time, keep going all the way down to the southern tip of the island - the views keep coming the whole way.

(2) Taroko Gorge

Formed by a river cutting a sheer gash through gleaming white marble, the gorge is a world-class natural wonder, surrounded by lush forests. Just north of the gorge is the Wenshan hotsprings, which pour forth from solid marble next to the river's edge, making a dreamlike natural sauna.

(3) Green Island

For Epicureans who can't get enough of a nice steamy soaking, little Green Island off Taiwan's east coast features a hotsprings that rises out of coral at the ocean's edge, mixing with the bracing waters of the sea. Good snorkeling and scuba is also to be had.

(4) Kenting

The national park at the southern tip of Taiwan, Kenting offers great beaches, unique geological formations, lots of forests, and a sunny resort atmosphere with accommodations for any budget. You'll find plenty of opportunity for outdoor activities like scuba and surfing.


(5) Hsitou

A forestry research station founded by the Japanese, Hsitou sits near the top of the Central Mountain Range. A good place for breathing in piercingly fresh air and sweeping vistas. A little ways further south is equally beautiful Shanlin Hsi, where the waterfall puts on a magnificent show every dawn. From there is a foot path to Mt. Ali, with a sunrise to rival Shanlin Hsi.

(6) Mt. Jade

Taiwan's highest peak, Mt. Jade, rises 3,952 meters above sea level. As the mountain was previously beset with an overabundance of visitors, the number of climbers permitted is now strictly controlled. This makes the huffing and puffing to the top all the more serene, but make sure to register for your pass well in advance. If you're lucky enough to go from April to June, you'll see (and smell) lots of wild mountain lilies. The nearby town of Tungpu offers a lovely rest for weary walkers, as well as high-mountain tea and honey.

(7) Yenshui

This little rural town explodes (literally) with activity every Lantern Festival, two weeks after Chinese New Year. The entire town takes part in an extravagant and perilous fireworks display - that involves audience participation. Vast numbers of bottle rockets are fired in showers directly at the crowd, which can also be enormous.

A note of caution: Every year several people are hospitalized from severe burns, etc., because they do not come properly protected. To attend this festival, you must cover every inch of your body. Cover your torso with a good thick jacket. Your head must be shielded by a motorcycle helmet, with a visor. Put gloves on your hands, cover up your neck with a scarf. In short, leave no skin exposed.

This is an outlandish but high-octane experience, definitely worth exploring if you're in Taiwan during the Chinese New Year season. But take it seriously. This festival should be treated as an extreme sport - your safety depends on being safety-conscious.

(8) Lukang

This little town in Changhua County established its reputation long ago as a center for traditional handicrafts. The old houses and streets of Lukang are amazingly well preserved, allowing you to lose yourself in a Taiwan of simpler times. The Lukang Folk Arts Festival goes on for three days just before the Dragon Boat Festival.